Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds form.

This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.

"I've noticed individuals hiding illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He's organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from four hidden city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Wine Gardens Around the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Vineyards help cities stay greener and ecologically varied. They preserve open space from construction by establishing permanent, yielding farming plots inside urban environments," explains the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, local spirit, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Variety

Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a plant left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "This is the mystery Eastern European grape," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Across the City

The other members of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of the city's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from about fifty vines. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."

Sloping Gardens and Traditional Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over 150 vines situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a city street."

Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of vines slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing wine."

"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the skins and enter the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and then incorporate a lab-grown culture."

Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the sole problem faced by winegrowers. The gardener has had to install a barrier on

Ethan Cannon
Ethan Cannon

Tech strategist and writer with over a decade of experience in digital transformation and startup ecosystems.